El Rastro has a main current, but the interesting objects often live at its edges. Duck into the side streets for old jewellery, incense, painted ceramics and tables where every item seems to come from a different decade.
The market works like Madrid itself: energetic first, detailed second. Let the crowd move you, then pause wherever colour or texture breaks the pattern.
FIELD NOTE
Arrive before the peak and keep valuables close. Finish with a drink or tapas nearby instead of trying to shop until closing.
